Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred names. But, tucked near the top among these culinary giants is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.
This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the family utterly surprised.
“I’m utterly surprised,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small place earning such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.
The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.
Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent quality.
It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.
The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.
Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.
The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.
“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
The view is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.
Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.
Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.
“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.
This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.
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